The 2024 edition of London Fashion Week unveiled an impressive array of collections from leading designers, each leaving a lasting impression on the catwalk with their distinctive viewpoints and trendsetting aesthetics. Highlighting five exceptional brands that reshaped runway trends and established the season’s direction, these collections encapsulated the richness and innovation for which London Fashion Week is renowned. JW Anderson captivated fashion aficionados with a whimsical journey through generations, tapping into nostalgia with a playful nod to the beloved ‘Grannies’ episode from the Australian children’s TV show, Bluey. Infusing a dash of fantasy, Anderson reinterpreted elements from bygone eras, including 1970s Marks and Spencer pointelle matching vests and knickers, alongside Mrs. Merton-style curly grey wigs. Simone Rocha’s runway presentation fused historical allusions with feminine exploration, drawing inspiration from Queen Victoria’s mourning attire. Dubbed The Wake, Rocha’s collection showcased meticulous craftsmanship and thematic depth, blending ethereal, crystal-embellished sheer dresses with faux fur accents and corsetry, resulting in a hauntingly beautiful ensemble. Erdem’s latest collection masterfully navigated the life of Maria Callas, juxtaposing classical influences with contemporary relevance. Set against the backdrop of the Parthenon galleries at the British Museum, Erdem paid homage to Callas’ legendary 1953 performance of ‘Medea’. Models adorned Cleopatra-esque eye makeup and extravagant silk pajamas, capturing the interplay between allure and vulnerability, while the critique of casting underscored the industry’s ongoing dialogue about inclusivity.
